CURIOSITY

IS A NAVIGATION SKILL

Finding furry friends and wandering where the map is sparse. Occasionally in the wrong direction.

Nature

Wild Iceland

Iceland happens between destinations.

Nature photo 34
Nature photo 35

Along the trail

I don't hike to conquer mountains. I hike because they're there, quietly minding their own business. The mountains ignore me, the glaciers ignore everyone, and the waterfalls are having what appears to be a very long-term disagreement with gravity.

Every hike here has two lengths: the one you see on AllTrails, and the much longer real one, after you stopped for 236 photos. Also it's amazing on the top. But you also have to go back down:)

Iceland nature landscape

SUN

The sky rarely tells the same story twice here. In winter, the sun barely rises before quietly slipping away again. During summer, it seems to forget that setting is part of the job. The clouds happily improvise the rest. Every day feels like a first draft.

mountains

Iceland didn't receive the memo that mountains should come with forests. Instead, waterfalls tumble freely through open valleys, where nothing blocks the view except an occasional cloud having a dramatic day. Gotta love it.

Road trip

I have an unreasonable number of photos that look suspiciously similar to each other... In my defense, the road kept refusing to be anything less than beautiful.

Iceland nature at dusk

Hot springs

Iceland somehow convinced an entire nation that standing outside in freezing weather wearing only a swimsuit is a perfectly reasonable activity. Surprisingly... they're right. Whether it's Sky Lagoon, the famous Blue Lagoon, the peaceful pools at Hvammsvík, Vesturbæjarlaug, or a hot river, there's something wonderfully surreal about soaking in steaming water with breathtaking views, while the wind and snow repeatedly checks if you've changed your mind about all this...

Ice

Diamond Beach is, in technical terms, ridiculously cool. Crystal-clear glacier ice scattered across black volcanic sand. We temporarily adopted a few tiny icebergs before deciding they probably belonged to the ocean more than to us. We returned them with the dignity they deserved... which mostly involved throwing them back into the water as far as we could.

Iceland nature panorama

City Vibes

Urban Iceland

Reykjavik simply gets on with being wonderfully itself

Reykjavik city view

In the streets

Reykjavík has a remarkable number of reasons to slow down. Fresh pastries at Sandholt, colorful street art, quirky galleries, vintage shops, the iconic Bónus piggy, food halls, and a nightlife that somehow feels lively without trying too hard. There's far too much to list as far as what to do here, which is a pretty good excuse to keep wandering.

Reykjavik street scene

SUburb

It's surprisingly easy to spend your days entirely in Reykjavík. It would also be a shame.

Don't stop there. Just beyond the city are quiet fishing harbors, colorful neighborhoods, lava fields, and seaside walking paths with tiny lighthouses. Wander through Hafnarfjörður, stroll the coast of Álftanes, watch the birds from Viðey, or simply pick a direction, drive a bit and honestly you will probably end up somewhere really cool.

Some of my favorite memories were made just outside the city limits.

City photo 16
City photo 17

Expensive af

This place will occasionally make you look at a restaurant menu, close it, and take a thoughtful walk around the block with your home made sammich. That plain cheese sammich you packed earlier starts feeling surprisingly gourmet real fast:) Living on a volcanic island in the middle of the Atlantic comes with certain logistical challenges, and the prices tend to reflect them.

Fortunately, sunsets have yet to discover capitalism, and the puffins haven't unionize yet either.

Reykjavik cityscape
Reykjavik city view

whaling

Whales have shaped Iceland's history for centuries. Coastal communities once relied on them for survival, and later commercial whaling became part of the country's fishing industry. Today, whaling remains one of Iceland's most debated traditions.

While commercial whaling still exists, whale watching has grown into one of the country's most popular wildlife experiences, and most people now come hoping to see these giants alive rather than on a plate.

City photo 42
City photo 43
Reykjavik city scene
Reykjavik city view

Night falls

If you landed here from another planet in June, you'd probably conclude that humans had quietly upgraded to 30-hour days. Hiking under a bright midnight sky feels just normal enough to make you question the rest of your life.

Winter, on the other hand, is for people who enjoy treating daylight like a limited-time event. Vampires, presumably, have an excellent time. I just slept a lot.

Northern Lights

Aurora Borealis

I still only vaguely understand what the northern lights are.

sCience

The short version is this: The Sun occasionally throws a stream of charged particles toward Earth. Our planet's magnetic field promptly redirects most of them toward the poles, where they collide with oxygen and nitrogen high in the atmosphere. Those collisions release energy as shimmering greens, purples, and reds... and cover the ground with people shouting, "Omggg, do you see that?!"

The long version is more complicated. But the short version is the one that matters.

Northern lights over Iceland

Wishful thinking

Aurora hunting comes with a mild side effect: temporary northern-light hallucinations. Clouds become auroras. Airplanes become auroras. The Imagine Peace Tower becomes... well, surprisingly convincing.

This condition usually resolves itself after an actual aurora appears.

Cats of Iceland

Furry Friends

Pspspsps.

Rabies

For decades, dogs were largely banned in Reykjavík, and today Iceland still has some of the strictest animal import rules in the world. The result is an island that has remained free of rabies and many other animal diseases. Which means you can usually say hello to Iceland's wonderfully friendly cats without worrying about foaming at the mouth the next day. I tested this theory extensively.

Yes, there are horses too.

Cat in Iceland

My tips

Curiosity beats itineraries.

Walk slowly.

Pet furry creatures.

The universe occasionally shows off really cool things here.

Everything is better with an unnecessary joke.

Take all the pictures.

Eat the food.

Bonus tends to be the cheapest.